Naxos Santorini

August 4th, 2010

We awoke early in Naxos and had our pre-departure breakfast at the Galaxy Hotel. We packed our bags and hauled them to the waiting minibus. The driver took us and some others to the port where each group joined the appropriate lines for their ferry. At the same time, trucks, buses and cars all queued up for the large Blue Star Ferry which took vehicles as well as passengers. That ferry arrived and in well-orchestrated dance, vehicles off-loaded and loaded on to the ferry, backing often to the bowels of the ship. I presume the loads were calculated somehow so that the ship stayed balanced for its next stops. After that was done, our Hellenic Seaways Flying Cat 3 arrived and glided almost silently into dock. Passengers disembarked and our lineup moved on to the ship. Since we were first, it was quick to board and stow our heavy suitcases (still haven’t learned to pack lite enough). We took the same seats we had on the previous ride three days earlier and the cat glided out of the Naxos harbor effortlessly and quietly. Soon it was skimming the waves and we were docking in Paroika, Paros and then Ios. I only have a vague recollection of Ios from 30 years ago and it seems to have changed and grown. Perhaps the vague memories have more to do with retsina than the passage of time. (If you don’t know what retsina is, google it.)

Well nostalgia aside, we soon were rounding into the lagoon of Santorini and gliding into the “new” port dock at the base of the towering cliffs. The girls were suitably impressed. Our taxi driver quickly identified us but we waited in vain for another couple whose name was on the placard. We were bundled into a Mercedes van and headed up the steep serpentine road up to the top of the cliffs. There were squeamish reactions from the girls as the altitude increased, especially since the driver was talking and then cursing into his cellphone. Handsfree is an option that might be necessary with emotions, manual transmission and a twisting road. Somehow, he stopped and turned the bus around and headed back down to rescue the missing couple who had appeared out of the ocean somehow- she was no Aphrodite however. This way we were able to do this serpentine road up the 1000 metres for the second time (like going on a ride twice for free). Well soon we did reach the plateau above and we could appreciate how small the three large cruise ships in the lagoon appeared. The whitewashed buildings of Fira appeared and our El Greco Resort was just outside of the town on the main road. Once past the reception area, we could see the three swimming pool areas set out amidst the white and blue rooms and buildings. Everything appeared nice including the pool bars, whirlpools and swimming pools. People were sitting around the pool and at the pool bar-resto having lunch. It was quite a family crowd. Our room was ready and it is quite large, with a sofa bed sitting area and a bedroom alcove. These had high ceilings and marble floors to keep the room cooler. The windows and doors had wooden shutters in the Cycladic style and we had a little deck outside for sitting. We overlook the pool area so it is convenient but not exposed to the noise of the town roads. The sun was strong and temperature high so we quickly changed into swim suits and headed outside, poolside, lathered with number 30 SPF. Swimming was followed by a light lunch poolside (beer, Greek salads and plenty of water. Poolside was well equipped with umbrellas, sun loungers and sofas for reading in the shade as well. Kate amused herself caring for two small Australian children in the shallow pool (she loves to be responsible for small kids).

At 5 PM the heat was still strong, but I changed and went for an exploration run up through the town and along little paths on the cliff edge. Of course below me were various homes, rooming houses, hotels and restaurants cascading downwards for several levels. I lasted half an hour and came back to the resort for a cooling dip and laps of the pool. At 7PM or so, I guided my hungry girls into Fira and we wandered the streets, easily distracted by the hundreds of jewelry stores which someone had to see to feel complete. We settled onto a rooftop restaurant (Restaurant Nicki) just in time to catch the gorgeous sunset and the flaming reddened sky. Our meals were served with the sunset behind us and the lights of the town up and down the cliffs. Very pleasant like all our meals so far. After supper, some sorbet and more window shopping in the now animated streets. Eleven PM seems to be the best hour for people to go out. A slow walk back to the hotel and we all settled in for the night, tired from the sun, the excitement and the visual delights of the day.